onizou idea nomads - iran - gerhard seizer & klara sibeck

 

 

 

 

 

2009/DEC/25 - 2010/JAN/16

IRAN

"This is the end of freedom", our Iranian fellow passenger told us. Welcome to Iran. We entered the country from Turkey, dressing up (the female one of us) in headscarf and hip-covering outfit between the two border controls. Yes, this was the first of 21 days of limited freedom. But under the surface we discovered a free thinking and incredibly hospitable people. And the silent deserts of east Iran will stay in our memory for a long time.

 


View IDEA NOMADS iran in a larger map

 
distance traveled 5081 km
elapsed time 21 days
average speed 10 km/h

 


tabriz during ashura celebrations

on the iran border
doing the laundry
lots of wool
closed for the weekend
making yarn
ashura in tabriz bazaar
ashura in tabriz bazaar
ashura in tabriz bazaar
ashura in tabriz bazaar
ashura in tabriz bazaar
statue
blue mosque
reflections
qalyan
in the womens' section of the bus
ashura celebration
ashura celebration
making noise
restaurant
on the street
street
closed shop
tabriz wall
streets of tabriz
barefoot martyr
parking spot
ashura candles
backstreet
wall
view from hotel


ardabil during ashura celebrations

volvo
ashura parade
ashura parade
ashura parade
ashura parade
making friends at the ashura parade
at the ashura parade
at the ashura parade
ashura parade
ashura parade
ashura parade
at the ashura parade
making friends at the ashura parade
ashura parade
serving tea
ashura parade
volvo
volvo
wall
bazaar closed for ashura celebrations
non alcoholic beer


masuleh mountain village

masuleh village
mahran hotel
shop
angry baker
for sale
chatting on the roof
bird
bank
pot
door
door
little mosque
roof becomes... floor
door
door handle
masuleh village
little mosque
on the roof
fresh bread
masuleh village
masuleh at dusk
direction of mecka


qazvin

city gate
hanging out with farshid
little boy
slaying the dragon
park
window
phone booth
street
street
mosaic
light
chrystal chandelier
window
ceiling
ceiling
in a mansion
qazvin by night
animal parts
sheep head and feet
cow head
cow head
cheap dates
truying a new desert
dinner with farshid's family


arriving in tehran

double teapot
pulp action
qalyan
at the shah's palace
walk in the park
graffiti
tiger
funky metall walls
hell
turtle in hell
windows
window
only the boots left
kebab
whiskey can


on new year's eve in tehran

crossword
big samovar
tree of life
carpet
ceiling at modern museum
coffee break at modern museum
movies
mona lisa nose job
repair and rental of typewriters
wall
in memorial
tobacco for sale
tehran wall
scooter mania
coffee
pottery animals at national history museum
national history museum
communication in the park
in the park
smoking
tea house
chatting at tea house
tehran times
tea break
making meatballs
zero alcohol sparkling


hiking tehran

doors
orange bags
through the village
up the mountain
beetroot & beans
lots of beans
man and fire
hikers
man & fire
hiker women
new year day hike
naser & gerhard
waterfall
picnic
no photos
well equipped
smoking waterpipe
metal
tree in house
door
new friends
door knob
taxi
azadi tower top
azadi tower
azadi tower sunset


last day in tehran

brand name tags
selling tags
sewing machine
on the street
sugar for sale
wall
mirrors
mirrors at golestan palace
mirror star
wind tower at golestan
mosaic at golestan
tea house
golestan lions
almost smiling
golestan mirror
house with aircon
hens in tehran
street light and deco lights
subway handles


kashan

on the bus
at meysam's place
deco
kashan street
bulbs
women
no hugs
important guy
window
ceiling
iwan
courtyard
male and female doorknob
mansion
pond
kids
girls
respect the law
mirror pond
tools
mirror
klara in mirror
looking out
courtyard from top
glass windows in the afternoon
glass window
onizou in iran
door
ladies
hamam


zurkhaneh in kashan

zurkhaneh clubs
heroes
hero
reading about iran
question
warming up
hard work
concentration
focus
when will it stop
push ups
and stretch
follow me
rotation
trying out the clubs
heavy stuff
new lead
music maestro
swinging it
thinking
watching
posing
mostafa thinking about doing zurkhaneh
in the circle


little village abyaneh

old man passing
woman in gate
three guys
little garden
garden in winter
tea
door
doorknob
for knocking
portrait
donkey
female and male knocker
guy on road
taxi sign
old man posing
old man closeup
taking a rest
house wall
disappearing posters
gathering
more door knockers
selling stuff
tough saleswoman
notice board
men and wall
talking


kashan and the fin garden

hamam
heroes
street sign
in the mosque
out of the mosque
dangerous hooks
bird
iron beggar
wind tower
cables
covered car
popcorn
cookies for sale
under construction
roof of bazaar
on the roof
small iron beggar
pain for sale
kashan by night
fire
getting the qalyan going
fin garden
tourists
driver
mosque under construction
no stopping
windows
saddle bags
with mostafa and meysam
meysam and mostafa


esfahan

salad
mosaic
gate of mosque
heavy load
bazaar
ceiling
guy dolls
girl dolls
all dressed up
half heads
a new friend
mihrab
marble wall
shadows
wash basin
headrests
mosaics
birds at imam mosque
dates
fire
decorated car
smoke like a broomstick maker
important people
khomeini and khamenei
fabrics
lanterns
nosejob
double portrait
on the bridge
sunset esfahan
lady mosque ceiling
going up
lady mosque entrance
imam square
lady mosque top
jameh mosque
yellow and blue
no leaves
minaret
courtyard
shiny floor
metal works
love
music room
music room decorations
lady mosque
overlooking imam square
workers
at imam square
looking for sun
hungry
bridge
taking a rest
under the bridge
bird and sun
sunset
lighting up the bridge
bridge by night
esfahan and water
women on the bridge
support
under bridge
bridge
four men
one man
under the bridge
night at the bridge
reflection
seal
sign
roses
lady mosque patterned mat
teahouse
ATM machine


going to garmeh

buying bus tickets
bus company symbol
iran khodro
bus stop
empty lands
taking off the veil in the bathroom
srteet lights in the desert
crosswalk
in front of the bus
guys at the bus
from the bus window


garmeh desert oasis

late night drum session
maziar drumming
maziar
playing on pots
rooftop
on the roof
two camels
camel kiss
our bed
making friends on the roof
laundry time
laundry with a view
carrying hay
wheelbarrow
pillows
kids in desert
collecting fire wood
car and fence
car and sunset
curvy road
at the fire
maziar and his car
onizou in garmeh
dry
making tea
habib serving tea
around the fire
hot
fire
oasis
along the road to the village
date palm
dangerous bushes
overlooking garmeh
top of the hill
garmeh from above
sunset
in the guesthouse
dinner time
pots
decorations
pots for playing on
picture of maziar
shadows in the desert
desert walk
dry bushes
dry land
salty desert
half a man
welcome to store
village road
on the village road
with habib
open fire
maziar & goat


yazd

mercedes bus - super delux
wifi in the courtyard
minaret with a center-grip
iron beggars on the street
iranian door paintings
more iranian door paintings
fresh meat
tailor activities
lively yazd
the heroes
mosque visit
prayer hall wall
3D ceiling
mosque care taker
friendly internet wall
bike bags
green mosque lights
book stand
more friendly internet wall
real mosaic
only with hijab
wall tiger
heavy prayer equipment
overlooking yazd
ancient air-conditioning
wind towers at playground
fabric delivery
courtyard tent
black delster, non alcoholic
fine iranian pizza
wind towers and kids
kids and wind tower
brik mosaic
iranian wall paintings
old courtyard
dizzy action
more dizzy action
hammam roof
objects from the past
multi color hammam floor
hammam window
ancient curves
light arrangement
pain is weakness
what's the time


zoroastrians in yazd

zoroastrian fire temple
zoroastrian symbol
zoroastrian fire
zoroastrian symbol details
tower of silence
wind towers in the desert
zoroastrian burial area
bright vision
iternal fire seeting
guests from india
more guests from india
religious lady from the past
zoroastrian symbol in stone
old lady from the village
out in the desert
ancient window
ancient outlook
sun peaking though
center of a tower of silence
ancient sight
cypress tree at the end of the street
village setup
pomegranades
desert speed dry
light at the wall


persepolis

roadside taxi at midnight
long way to go
sunrise at persepolis
the old tent town
gate of all nations
hlaf horse, half man
bringing the sheep
all in one direction
ancient talk
eye of the beholder
attacked
pin writing
more pin writing
reaching to the sky
making an entrance
cow vessel
an overlook
stone horse
never used stone bird
top of the pillars
walking though the gate of all nations
iranian toilet sign
wooden hotel huts
hotel overview in tiles
ancient graves
tower at the graves
ancient grave
onizou at persepolis


shiraz

the cutter-guy made it to iran
funky hats at the ground
very very old house
where is the river
iranien wall advertisement
more iranien wall advertisement
and even more iranien wall advertisement
praying session in the courtyard
hafez's grave
praying for hafez
more parying for hafez
rose leaves on hafe's grave
palmtree bird
iranian picknick on the main road crossing
shiraz street crossing
smoking waterpipe
or hubble-bubble as they call it
instant tent maker at the road
all looking the same


zeinodin caravanserai

roof of the caravanserai
looking in the desert from the roof
sun peaking into the caravanserai
round structure
curtain arrangement
the oasis
stron desert sun
like a castle
trukcs though the desert
sleeping compartments in the hallway
the polar oil heater
the confi carpet room
roof structure
night in the caravanserai
romantic desert night lightup
early morning light
sunrise in zeinodin
lion headfooter

 

train to tehran and tehran airport

long vagon
location of the ladder
train mirror image
the new airport in tehran
preparing for the indien beach